It’s hard to believe that I have been traveling to Burgundy since 2009, when my first trip took me throughout the great regions of France. There are many different ways to go about traveling to Burgundy, depending on where you’re coming from, but my most frequent (and favorite) way includes a weekend in Chablis, the “gateway” to Burgundy. The first route involves starting in Paris and going south.

One must rent a car or have a driver to truly appreciate Burgundy. Trains can get you in and out of the major cities, but part of the charm of Burgundy lies in some of its dusty corners. One such place is Chablis, a place of charm and majesty, and I might I add, delicious wines.

One must first get to Paris, an easy enough feat from almost anywhere in the world. I suggest flying in early and renting a car so that you can catch lunch. Trying to dine anywhere after 2:00pm in France is quite difficult, and restaurants typically do not open again until 7:00pm. Land early in Paris, get a car, and drive down the winding roads to Chablis. It will take you about two and a half hours if you do not stop, and you will catch a glimpse of the glorious Chablis Grand Cru when you come into the village. On the Rue de Auxerroise that runs straight through the center of town, visitors are greeted by little flower shops, a boulangerie, the beloved wine bar Chablis Wine Not on the corner, and the gentle water flow of the Serein. It is the perfect place to get over jet lag, review your itinerary further south, and drink plenty of delicious Chablis at prices far more affordable than anywhere else in the world.

After a day or two in Chablis, I journey into the heart of the Côte d’Or via Beaune, the central town that essentially divides the Côte de Nuits in the north from the Côte de Beaune in the south. It is about an hour and a half drive from Chablis, and once in Beaune, Burgundy is your world to discover. There are countless private rentals, lovely hotels, and a wonderful array of restaurants and shops to explore. I make Beaune my home base so that I can avoid driving after a dinner filled with revelry and wine, and simply walk myself home atop the cobble streets. Central Beaune is a small circle; the outskirts are lovely as well, but it is wonderful to have a bustling yet manageable home base in the heart of Beaune.

From Beaune you can drive up to the Côte de Nuits and explore the quaint villages of Gevrey-Chambertin, Morey-St-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, and Nuits-St-Georges. The historic Château du Clos de Vougeot is a must-see for any Burgundy lover, as is lunch at the property and a walk around the vineyards. It feels a bit like time travel when you are there; both the vines and the castle have been there for centuries.

South of Beaune takes you by the villages of Pommard, Volnay, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, and into Santenay. If you feel like earning your next glass (ahem, bottle) of wine, then bike the route so you can feel the wind and hear the leaves on the vine rustle by you. Further south, you’ll hit the rolling hills of the Côte Chalonnaise, home to some of the greatest value Burgundies produced today. And even further south, just before you reach the region of Beaujolais, explorers can enjoy the more mountainous terrain of the Mâconnais, home to sunny, fresh, and lively white wines.

The drive from Beaune to Lyon is just under two hours, but what you can absorb in a a few days in Burgundy is astounding. There is no better place to enjoy and learn.

My bias toward Chablis always makes me want to rest up there first, but before anyone comes to object, and submit that I’ve forgotten one of the best paths — through Champagne — let me say that this is of course, a wonderful entry to Burgundy as well. I have gone this way a few times, and truly enjoy stops in Reims, Epernay, and the tiny little town of Aÿ, home to Champagne Bollinger. But I must also say that when I am headed to Burgundy, I want Burgundy, and even the finest Champagne will not quench my thirst. I have also stopped in Champagne on the way home by way of the train and then driven from Aÿ to Charles de Gaulle airport, which is just shy of a couple of hours drive. You can also easily take the train.

Finally, one can tackle Burgundy from Lyon and head north, as well. It is the journey outlined above but in reverse, and you can either continue traveling north up into Chablis and into Paris for departure, or drive back down south to Lyon. The airport in Lyon is a bit less scary (although you’ll have to take a bus to get to the rental cars), and the drive to Beaune is less than two hours. While the bustle of Lyon is hardly the sleepy, jet lag cure of Chablis, it is a beautiful city with extraordinary cuisine.

There is no wrong way to get to Burgundy, but somehow its location in between some of the greatest cities in France makes it feel a bit elusive. I like that about Burgundy — nothing worth drinking should come too easily (or should it?)

Enjoy your journey however you find Burgundy, and if nothing else, make sure you say ‘Bonjour’ when you walk into any establishment.

Cheers!

Getting to Burgundy

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