Burgundy in November
A work trip in London gave me the opportunity to skip down to Burgundy this November. Normally, I find myself there in the spring or summer, and sometimes early fall for harvest. A few years ago, I spent time there in October. The weather in Burgundy varies every vintage; in 2022, June in Burgundy was hot and sunny. I sunburned that year while bike riding up and down the Côte de Beaune. In 2024, the summer was wet, rainy, and a little cold. Mildew affected many grapes and yields were miniscule. The late fall and winter are a bit easier to predict; I’ll never forget one of my first trips in February when my colleague told me to bring extra socks because the cellars would chill my bones. That’s all to say that a quiet trip in November was a welcome change to the bustling feel of June, when growers are busy in the vineyards with hardly any time to look up.
One must be cautious not to confuse quiet with sleepy, since there is much going on in Burgundy after the harvest is done. There is, of course, the famed Hospice de Beaune Auction, which takes place every third Sunday of November, and has a history dating back to 1859. It draws generous wine lovers from all over the world. Once the crowds have departed, though, Burgundy is alone again. There is still lots of work to do. Initial pruning may begin, as it did this year in several parts of Pommard and Volnay. From the roads leading into the villages, we could see smoke rising from burning canes. The timing of pruning affects budburst, which can ultimately mitigate frost and control the start of the growing season. Cellars are filled with wine both in tank and barrel. Vigneron are topping up barrels, patiently waiting for malolactic fermentation to finish, which may not happen until March or April. Finished wines from the previous vintage rest peacefully in barrel or tank, awaiting the springtime when they will finally make their way to bottle.
Like most regions in the world with significant seasonal shifts, the cuisine changes, too. Stews emerge on menus in place of lighter preparations. I find myself craving more red Burgundy than white. If it is white, it must be robust and broad, like a Meursault. One that always hits the spot is Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault 1er Cru Charmes, especially in a vintage like 2015 or 2019. I love red with a nice bit of age, exuding savory, spicy notes to match the smells of the season (see Red Burgundy: Highlights from the 1990s for some bottles that have moved me lately.) During my time in London and Burgundy, I found myself reaching for warmer vintages on wine lists, like 2018 or 2020. Their primary fruit and density pair well with steaming hot plates of Burgundian classics, like Boeuf Bourguignon or Coq au Vin. I find that those vintages warm me from the inside out, refresh my palate, and are perfect companions on cold winter nights, at holiday or family dinners, or with a good book by a roaring fire. When I drink them, I can close my eyes and remember Burgundy in November: chilled air, dark skies, and vines that are about to go down for a long winter’s nap.
Below is a short and sweet list of some of the wines I enjoyed in November. I hope they find a way into your glass this winter. Cheers!
2020 Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg Vosne-Romanée
Mugneret-Gibourg is famous for supple, silky wines, especially from Vosne-Romanée. The 2020 vintage offers sweet dark cherry fruit, savory spices, and a fine-grained tannin that gives the wine structure without being rigid. I love the texture of this wine and its long finish.
2020 Gilbert & Christine Felletig Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes
With a touch more roundness than Vosne-Romanée, Chambolle-Musigny always wraps me up with its floral bouquet, pretty red and blue fruits, and elegant tannins. Felletig offers so much sheer pleasure in 2020, whether it is their village Chambolle or any of their smaller premiers crus.
2020 Domaine Anne Gros Chambolle-Musigny La Combe d’Orveau
While Anne Gros wines are always precision in a glass, the Chambolle-Musigny offers a slightly more supple style. Vibrant red and black cherry, bright and lifted floral notes, and sweet spices dance on the palate.
2018 Domaine Armand Rousseau Clos de la Roche Grand Cru
It is hard to challenge the power and prestige of Armand Rousseau. While the 2018 Clos de la Roche is a baby at less than a decade old, the charm of the 2018 vintage shined through. I loved the firm structure of this wine, yet it was not so statuesque that I could not enjoy the primary fruit on the mid-palate. Dark and spicy, this was the perfect nightcap in the heart of London with an old friend.
2018 Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru ‘Les Chaignots’
While other producers produce less tame versions of Nuits-Saint-Georges, Mugneret-Gibourg manages to gently handle this village and premier cru, making it feel powerful yet pretty. Grippy yet approachable tannins from the 2018 vintage frame the dark fruit, cured meat, and exotic spices of this wine.