An Aligoté Uprising

The why of Aligoté’s uprising deserves more attention, but the matter I wish to address today is actually the what of Aligoté. Sure, it is more available than it used to be on the U.S. market. And sure, it is far less expensive than a bottle of Chassagne-Montrachet, depending on the producer. The harsh reality is that a lot of bottles of white wine are less expensive than village Burgundy, but are they satisfying enough to reach for as an alternative? If you want Chassagne-Montrachet, is a glass of Aligoté really going to hit the spot? And long term, is it a good idea for producers or the trade to market Aligoté as a “cheaper replacement” for an altogether different wine style?